Kougawildernis.co.za

KOUGA WILDERNIS (18 to 21 March 2005)

What a weekend!! Those of you who did not attend, lost out big time.

The farm is situated in the Kouga Mountains near Joubertina. A record number of 12 vehicles gathered for this eventful weekend. Saturday morning saw the official opening of the club's own route “Sukkelpoort Trail”, first rated as a 3 4, but after all the vehicles completed it without any hassles, it was decided to give it a 3 rating.

On completion of the circular route, it was time to return to the campsite for refreshments and lunch and a swim in the swimming pool. Nou, dit is nie sommer enige swembad nie, daar is 'n bergstroompie wat voortdurend in die bad vloei, en dit beteken net een ding, damn koue water. You don't just enter into the pool, you do it with caution, because…….everything shrinks, but it was very refreshing though, especially because it was a very hot day.

A number of the members spent the Saturday afternoon abseiling, the mini one of 18 meters while most of the others just relaxed in the camp. Verder praat ons niks.

Sondag was dit 'n ander roete se beurt. Ons het eers die rivierroete gedoen en toe die Sukkelpoort roete in die teenoorgestelde rigting. Patrick & Ben het dit reeds Saterdagmiddag gedoen en die res van die groep wou dit ook ervaar.

The weather did not play along and we had thunder showers Sunday afternoon and some light showers on Monday, never the less, it was a fantastic weekend and everybody enjoyed it thoroughly.

We won't mention anything about the almost pickled braai ribs and the potjie that mysteriously made its way to the ground. Those who were there know what the full story.

Most of us have an appointment with the 90 meter abseil (next time).

In the mountains north of Joubertina lies this superb destination for the adventurous, the nature lover and the escapee alike.

In the mountains north of Joubertina lies this superb destination for the adventurous, the nature lover and the escapee alike.

While scouting for a place to camp on Route 62 between Port Elizabeth and George, we misread a vital sign outside Joubertina. I thought I saw ‘2,8km’ to a place called Kouga Wilderness, yet 3,8km later the road still stretched out before us. We met a friendly fellow pushing his bicycle who greeted us with a big smile and a lot of nodding of his head. Yes, don’t worry. We’re on the right road. It’s a beautiful place. Beautiful. He waved his hands and pointed. Yes, we should carry on, definitely. “Dis so mooi, meneer. Daar’s watervalle, bokke en die pragtigste valleie.” And then he shook his head. No, it wasn’t 2,8km but 28km.

After a quick consultation our intuition told us it would be worth heeding his advice and, eventually, we did indeed arrive at a very beautiful place, Kouga Wilderness, up there in the lower reaches of the Kougaberg.

We were greeted by the owner, Nico Ferreira, recognisable for ever afterwards by his large red-grey beard. Busy with the drying and sorting of apricots, he directed us to the campsite, saying his wife, Melodie, would be around shortly to make sure we were settled in.

On arriving at the campsite you immediately feel the panoramic presence of this place. How could you not, surrounded by picturesque mountains on all sides? What struck me was that there were just the two of us in all this splendour. Thank you to midweek, out-of-season summer holidays.

We wasted no time in taking advantage of the situation and, after a quick change into cossies, dived into the crystalline spring pool, a great way to shake off the travel dust. Under a grand oak we shared a ripe peach, grapes and a piece of watermelon. Then Melodie arrived. After pleasantries she shared some insights about the farm with us.

“We were stuck with the choice of letting the farmhouse fall apart, or restoring it and letting people appreciate what we’d done. The choice became simple. Dit was ’n maklike keuse, jy weet. Then we decided to build the pool.”

Then things evolved – as they do when you set your sights on something. Soon the lapa (gorgeous inside) and campsite followed. Then a log house, river chalet and bush camp.

Nico’s family came from Portugal in the early 1800s, taking on the 3 000ha farm as a subsistence enterprise. Over generations they extended and developed it into a commercial enterprise that now produces 20 to 30 tons of dried apricots a year.

“We’re members of the Baviaanskloof Mega Reserve and work hard to attract indigenous animals back to our land,” he told us. And with great success. Bushbuck can often be seen walking and grazing among the lambs. We saw three during our short stay.

"You immediately feel the panoramic presence of this place..."

A plethora of first-class 4x4 and quad bike trails as well as abseiling and black bass fishing in the nearby Kouga River were all available to us, but we settled on the waterfall hike through the valley.

We arrived back in time to prepare a bonfire in the lapa, put some meat on the braai and relax with drinks as the sun dipped below the horizon. Fancy some stargazing later? Yes please. Splendid. Oh my, look, there are so many.

Melodie had invited us to view the farming activities the next morning and, after a quick bowl of pap, we congregated at the workshed. The atmosphere was jivey, with good music filling the air and about 50 of the local community hard at work. We were able to taste some of the apricots and shown the various stages in preparing them, from the cutting and sorting to the drying – with the fruit laid out on large wooden racks. Melodie let us in on the secrets of her trade, happy to share her knowledge with keen listeners. We were made to feel very welcome.

After we’d made a quick stop in her farm stall to top up on bread and cheese, she invited us into her home where she showed us pictures from her son and daughter’s weddings. Both took place under the grand oak tree and were celebrated in true fashion in and around the lapa.

Weddings are so full of fun and merriment that Nico and Melodie decided to offer the farm as a venue for future weddings. While restoring the farmhouse they’d come across an essay book dating back to 1933 in which there was a poem about the tree. Now every couple that gets married under the tree receives a copy of the poem. Its author, then 89, visited the farm in 2008.

After packing a picnic lunch back at the campsite, we took a walk to the bush camp. This is ideal for those wishing to get away from it all and be surrounded only by nature for a few days. Luckily no one had booked it, as that would have made it off-limits, so we could go exploring. This was well worth the effort just to see Gladiator’s Head, a natural rock formation that really lives up to its name.

By the time we had to say our goodbyes, the Ferreiras and us were chatting like old friends. Perhaps that’s why the road home seemed less daunting. Kouga Wilderness is definitely a place we’ll return to, another spot on the R62 between PE and George that’s a hidden gem of adventure and beauty.

Kouga Wilderness 042 273 9903, www.kougawilderness.co.za
Baviaans Tourism 044 923 1702, www.baviaans.co.za